Big Bend National Park - December 2012

   My Sweetie and I grabbed our sweatshirts, SuperGeo, and some extra clothes and ran away to spend the weekend at the Chisos Mountain Lodge at Big Bend National Park. We started out early in the morning expecting to take our time to enjoy the approximately 4.5 hour drive to the park. Heading west along I-20 to Monahans, we made great time at 75 mph! Turning south to head towards Fort Stockton, we didn’t need to slow down much.

   Continuing south on US 385, we decided to take a brief break at the metropolis of Marathon, TX (the city government advertises the city as the place “where there's nothing 'to do'”) to sample some of the local cuisine. We wanted to try the super fancy deluxe once-in-a-lifetime meal at the 12 Gage restaurant and the White Buffalo Bar but, alas, the doors were locked at 1100. So, we sauntered a few hundred feet down the not-so-busy main street (better known as US 90) to find Johnny B's Old Fashioned Soda Fountain. Stopped in to have a quick burger, some nice iced tea, and a much needed pit stop.

   After lunch, I made a giant "U" turn to get back onto US 385 south in order to get back on track. 

   The landscape had changed dramatically after we left Fort Stockton. The flat area disappeared to be replaced by buttes, arroyos, washes, mountains, and other interesting visual effects. A few miles south of Marathon, we traveled through a road cut and found some interesting rocks. [Note: I would have gone into much more detail about this 'rock' but apparently I don't have sufficient knowledge to adequately describe the characteristics. Just think "pretty rock" according to a geologist.]

   Arriving at the Chisos Mountains Lodge area around 1330'ish, we completed our registration and then took off to make the Window Trail hike. This trail is about 5.6 miles round-trip from the lodge area and goes down about 800 feet. So, let's work the math - we arrive, 

• after driving for several hours (kind of tired, you know), 

• at a location which is at 5,400 feet (air is a little bit thinner than what we are used to having), 

• to walk a moderate (yeah, moderate to someone in good shape) trail

• 800 feet down and then back up 800 feet (in thin air, remember?) 

• before sunset (oh, yeah, it gets dark early in the basin)

• and watching for mountain lions and bears (who are active about this time of day).

   The math works out! We head out on the trail hoping to be finished in about 3 and a half hours. 

   Let me say that the hike is beautiful. If you go, be sure to take a camera.

   About 150 yards from the very end of the trail, an event occurred that just about put an end to our entire weekend. Heading down some primitive steps, I was following Sweetie when my knee gave out and I tumbled face-first into the rocky trail in front of me. Fortunately, I broke nothing but did have a nasty bump on my forehead, a bruised and scraped shoulder, a partially sprained wrist, and a massively bruised ego with a dented straw Stetson.

   After several minutes, I convinced My Sweetie to continue on to see the Window. Once she returned, she noticed that since I was clearly a "wounded prey critter," a tarantula was moving in for the kill!

   After resting for a few minutes, we decided to head back up to the Lodge area. It took us quite a bit longer to ascend the trail but we successfully arrived back to civilization before it was too dark. Remember, this area has some of the least light pollution in the continental United States so when the moon isn't out, it is DARK. Getting back before the sun goes all the way day is very important. (Note to self: next time, bring a flashlight with you.)

   We then took turns showering and getting ready for supper. Although neither of us were particularly hungry, we headed over to the only restaurant within 50 miles. When we finished, we discovered that there were very few lights in the area to guide us back to our rooms. Dang. Really need that flashlight.

  The next morning, we ate around 0730 so we could get hiking before it got too hot. We skipped the Lost Mine Trail and went directly to Dugout Wells. Here, we took the very short nature trail in the Chihuahuan Desert and viewed the different types of plants found here. Also, there is a sort of oasis here from a well dug by one of the earliest Anglo settlers.

   Our next stop was the Ranger station near the Rio Grande Village so we could find out if the Old Ore Road was open. The ranger filled us with lots of dire warnings about really, really needing a four wheel drive vehicle. Since we had KR (our 4x4 off-road F150), we had all we needed to make the trip. After a quick stop to buy some lunch for later, we started our road trip around 1000 or so. This unmaintained road is wide enough for only one vehicle at a time and runs for 26 miles from near the Rio Grande Village in the south to the Dagger Flat Auto Trail about 15 miles north of Panther Junction.

   Along the road, we took a side trip to Ernst Tinaja. This canyon hike was only about 600 yards or so and was a beautiful hike. The canyon really shows a lot of geologic activity and the floor of the river bed was littered with oyster and ammonite fossils embedded in the rocks.

   Further up the road, we saw the geology change several times and even the vegetation being different. We found it funny to realize that this road was the main road from Marathon, TX, to Boquillas, Mexico, for many years. It even became US 385 for a period of time. Now, however, the road runs up and down many washes and the action of flash floods have removed most vestiges of the previous super highway!

   We thoroughly enjoyed taking our time along this drive and stopping just to take a moment to look at different canyons and protrusions of granite.

   Eventually, we reached Roys Peak Vista where we actually had room to pull over, get out of the truck, and stretch our legs for a moment before being overwhelmed by the sheer majesty of this very brutal, yet beautiful, landscape.

Attempting to lift 1,000 lbs.

   Once we were finally back on a surfaced road, we drove towards Castolon and the Tuff Canyon. Here, we stopped so that My Sweetie, the geologist, could climb down and actually touch some of the volcanic ash that gives this canyon its name. I think she would have actually broken the Federales law and taken a specimen of basalt if she could have lifted it up and got it into our pickup!

  The next day, we headed out the west entrance of the park but stopped at one last place to view the Rough Run area. I believe this is appropriately named the Badlands as I can imagine nothing can live in this area.

  After a quick trip to the Terlingua Ghost Town (quite disappointing), we drove  back north on TX 118 to Alpine. Then, back home.

   This trip became one of our favorites because of the hiking and exploration we did. Amazing trip with my best friend!